The Politics of Dressing

In an era where every facet of life seems intertwined with political discourse, it's no surprise that fashion, a powerful form of self-expression and cultural reflection, has become a battleground for social and political commentary. Putting it bluntly, politics is everywhere. Fashion, as a capitalist industry fueled by money and influence, is inevitably drawn into the fray. With vested financial interests come vested political interests. And, like many affluent industries, fashion, and it’s clientele, is constantly under scrutiny for social stances that they voice through clothes and creation. Whether we like it or not, fashion is inherently political.
Hebe Street
Courtesy of A-Jane
 

In an era where every facet of life seems intertwined with political discourse, it's no surprise that fashion, a powerful form of self-expression and cultural reflection, has become a battleground for social and political commentary. Putting it bluntly, politics is everywhere. Fashion, as a capitalist industry fuelled by money and influence, is inevitably drawn into the fray. With vested financial interests come vested political interests. And, like many affluent industries, fashion, and it’s clientele, is constantly under scrutiny for social stances that they voice through clothes and creation. Whether we like it or not, fashion is inherently political.

This undeniable link between fashion and politics stems from the very nature of creativity. Art, in all its forms – from literature and painting, to music and fashion – is driven by opinion and emotion. Artists, including fashion designers, channel their perspectives and passions into their creations, often sparking dialogue and challenging societal norms. Think of the impact of a powerful novel like George Orwell's 1984, a chilling political commentary disguised as fiction, or Picasso's Guernica, a masterpiece that captured the horrors of war and ignited anti-war sentiment. These creative endeavours, much like fashion, have the power to ignite conversations, challenge perspectives, and inspire change, blurring the lines between art and activism.

 

Courtesy of Kostume
 

Fashion in its early years was remarkably political. Christian Dior's iconic "New Look" in the post-WWII era, with its cinched waists and full skirts, was more than just a fashion statement; it was a symbol of femininity and a rejection of wartime austerity, sparking debates about women's roles in society. Chanel, despite her controversial wartime associations with a Nazi officer, was a pioneer for women's emancipation, but created clothing in a very oppositional way to Dior.  Westwood, the "enfant terrible" of British fashion, has consistently used her platform to champion political causes. From her early days defining the punk movement with its anti-establishment ethos to her more recent campaigns against climate change and social injustice. She also posed as Maggie Thatcher on the cover of Tatler, and send models down the runway with “Yes” badges in promotion of Scottish independence. But these statements still continue. Balenciaga's Fall/Winter 2022 show, staged in a snow globe amidst a blizzard, served as a poignant commentary on the climate crisis, forcing attendees to confront the harsh realities of a changing world. Prabal Gurung release t-shirts saying “Girls Just Want To Have Fundamental Rights” in 2022 in response to the landmark Roe v Wade story about female abortion rights.

 

Courtesy of Line Outline
 

Celebrities, too, have harnessed the power of fashion to make political statements. Lady Gaga's infamous meat dress at the 2010 MTV Video Music Awards, while controversial, sparked a conversation about LGBTQ+ rights and the discriminatory "Don't Ask, Don't Tell" policy that was then in place in the US military. Beyoncé's 2016 Super Bowl performance, featuring black leather and berets, paid homage to the Black Panther Party, amplifying Black voices and highlighting racial injustice in a time of heightened police brutality. The 2018 Golden Globes saw a sea of black gowns in solidarity with the #MeToo movement, a powerful visual statement against sexual harassment and abuse in Hollywood and beyond. Billy Porter's groundbreaking 2019 Oscars tuxedo gown, a hybrid of masculine and feminine elements, challenged gender norms and celebrated fluidity on one of the world's biggest stages. Cara Delenvigne wore a “Peg the Patriarchy” emblazoned corset to the 2021 Met Gala. 

Today, a new generation of designers is weaving political threads into their creations, using fashion as a tool for social change. Stella McCartney, a long-time advocate for animal rights, continues her crusade against cruelty with her anti-fur campaigns. Her recent "Peace & Dove" collection, launched in September 2024, took aim at the use of dove feathers in fashion, highlighting the irony of using a symbol of peace in an industry often criticized for its unsustainable practices. Gabriella Hearst, another champion of ethical fashion, consistently promotes feminist ideals and eco-consciousness, casting climate activists and influential women like Xiye Bastida and Cecile Richards in her shows. She also partners with organizations like Save the Children, donating proceeds from her collections to support children in need.

 

Courtesy of Li Mo
 

Off-White, with its tagline "defining the grey area between black and white," promotes unity and challenges the increasing polarization of society. The brand's close ties with the skate community, including donations to skate parks and community initiatives, reflect its commitment to inclusivity and youth empowerment. A$AP Rocky, the rapper turned designer, made a bold statement with his "American Sabotage" collection at Men's Fashion Week in June 2024. The show, a powerful blend of art and activism, featured anti-war symbols, references to the Underground Railroad, and thought-provoking slogans like "It's easier to buy a gun than a cake," sparking conversations about control and social justice.

The most recent New York Fashion Week in September 2024 demonstrated the growing influence of political activism within the industry. The CFDA and Vogue partnered for the "Fashion for Our Future" march, a non-partisan event encouraging voter registration and participation in democracy. Designers like Aurora James hosted events in support of political candidates, and Ella Emhoff, a rising star in the modeling world, whilst also Kamala Harris’ step daughter, became an example of how different choices, from castings to job acceptances, and can become so entangled in political view point.

 

Courtesy of Jeanne Friot
 

Looking ahead, the increasing integration of fashion and technology raises intriguing questions about the future of political expression in the digital realm. As digital fashion gains traction, with avatars and online personas becoming extensions of our identities - that are arguably more malleable in their appearance - how will political activism manifest itself in this virtual world? Could we also see virtual protests, digital fashion campaigns, and online communities rallying around social causes? With fashion also becoming a more open, democratic, and accessible space with the likes of online education and resources for self-actualisation, will we see even more broader opinions and ideas manifesting themselves in clothes. At the dawn of both a broadening and digitizing fashion world, it is certain that politics is poised to become an even more powerful force in shaping the industry.

 

Courtesy of Lxtanya
 

 


Visit NJAL I THE SHOP to discover innovative designers redefining the future of power dressing.